Shake and Bake Meth step-by-step
The tools that I use can obviously be substituted for others… Ex: You do not need baby food jars if you have a better or more convenient container for your acetone/Epsom and Isopropanol/Epsom mixtures when you put them in the freezer if you want to recrystallize, but I highly encourage you to use the chemicals that I list, or something equalor better in quality.
- 1 Box of 12-Hour or 24-Hour (2.4 grams Pseudoephedrine)
- Can be Sudafed or any of the generics
- Depending on the store and type, costs about $6 - $12
- 1/2 – 3/4 cup Lye (Sodium Hydroxide – NaOH)
- I use Roebic Laboratories Crystal Drain Opener from Lowe’s
- Ace Hardware also has smaller containers of 100% Lye that are about $7
- Costs about $16 with tax for a 2lb container
- 1/4 – 3/8 cup Ammonium Nitrate Crystals (NH4NO3– AN)
- I use the crystals from the inside of instant Ice compresses from The Dollar General
- Costs $1.50 for each Ice Compress
- You will use about 1 per 2 cooks or so
- Took me a long time but I located an MSDS or something that verified the contents inside the AN Ice Compresses was like 98%-99% AN
- 1/2 a bottle of Coleman’s Premium Camping Fuel o Red bottle at Walmart
- Costs around $6
- I’ve seen no difference in results buy washing Coleman’s Premium First, so I do not waste my time
- Look, I know this is going to hurt a bunch of vaginas out there so here’s the deal…
§ I also used Diethyl Ether for a bit, and it worked great, I just got tired of having to empty the cans and doing the water wash with the shit.
§ I LIKE COLEMAN’S!!! If you don’t like that, guess you’llsl probably live…
- 1 Soda stream Plastic Bottle (500ml)
- I buy a pack of 2 bottles at Walmart
- Costs about $14
- I reuse them a few times, although many others recommend against doing this, but I’m cheap and I haven’t had any problems.
- The only other Reaction Vessels (RV) that I have used are 600ml or so Smart water Bottle and the 1 Litter Smart water Bottle
- 2 Energizer Advanced Lithium AA Batteries
- I buy the 4 packs from Walmart
- Costs about $6 for the 4-pack
- Energizer Ultimate works as well but they are more expensive and the case is harder to cut through
- A couple bottles of bottled water· Usually Around 10 – 20 drops of muriatic acid (also called hydrochloric acid –HCl)
- I buy at Lowes
- 1 Gallon Jug
- Costs about $8
- Some Epsom salt
- I buy at Walmart
- Large container costs like $1
- Some Acetone
- I buy at Lowes
- I believe it’s around a quart, in a metal container, and it costs around $7
- Some Isopropanol Alcohol if you want to Recrystalize
- I buy the large container of 91% Alcohol at Walmart
- Costs less than $3
- A pair of PVC Pipe Cutter so I got mine at Lowes
- Cost around $10 or so
- Will be using these to cut the casing off of the batteries
- A couple pairs of plyer so I didn’t buy these as I already had them, but I hope you oecan figure out where toget some
- One of these will be used to hold the battery while cutting the casing, and the other will be used to pull the “guts” out of the battery
- A bunch of coffee filters
- A couple of cotton balls
- A blow-dryer
- A couple of grocery bags to use as trash bags
- A few 1 Quart zip lock baggies (I like the ones with the slide seals)
- An Eye Dropper
- Something to test PH
- I use a regular pool PH Test Kit (Pain in the ass, but it works)
- A mason Jar
- A thumb tack
- A sewing needle
- A plate to use as an evaporation plate
- 2 shot glasses
- A couple of glass baby food jars
- A Plastic Funnel
- A blender
- 1/4 Cup measuring cup
- 5 Small Tupperware containers with the lids
- Any safety gear that makes you feel more secure (Kitty Litter, gloves, face mask, whatever)
- I do recommend something to breathe through so that you do not inhale a bunch of Ammonia…That shit is nasty.
- Honestly, I usually cook in the car or in my bedroom in boxers, but I know shit can go wrong, and that’s just stupid… Please, safety first.
I know that it looks/sounds like a lot of shit, but don’t get discouraged… It will probably cost around $100-$150 for your first cook and around $20-$30 for each cook after that… You will likely yield between 1.5 – 2 grams of high quality meth that you can cut at least 25% if selling and still keep a very marketable product at $100 a gram, so you will have about $185 -$250 street value worth of product for each cook… Li(NH3)4 thinks this is a pretty good Return on Investment, but Li(NH3)4 doesn’t care because he likes to abuse all of the product from ever cook with his wife
OK… Now we are going to do an outline or “RECIPIE” of the actual procedure. I am doing it this way so that you can just follow a step by step process that’s not "too" wordy… Just make sure you understand what you are doing before you start… Trust me, this process is FUCKING EASY with VERY LITTLE DANGER “IF” you understand what you are doing… The only REAL DANGER is all the Damn Over-Zealous Hillbilly Geniuses that believe reading is for the city folk. Please don’t add to the ridiculously amplified misconception that this is a super dangerous procedure that will blow our innocent neightbors up… It’s bad publicity!
Added Info Dean brought to my attention, and is correct, so I tought I'd edit it before I have some fun get in banned from this site because all the bickering, whining, and sore pussy rubbin is losing it's interest to me...
Anyway:
If you're not in a big hurry to complete cook, you don't need extreme pressure to Bronze the Li, as a matter of fact, you could get RV all loaded & leave cap slightly vented, and come back after a couple of hours, and be Bronzed... Assuming you have enough AN and Lye to produce enough Ammonia gas to bronze the Li...
Just remember, the heat and pressure are incredibly important when you add the PSE, and the entire time the PSE is reactiong with the Li Bronze/Amide... You need the high pressure here if you want good dope...
COOL!
Basic Procedure Outline:
1. Place a layer of Epsom salt into a cookie sheet and bake in the oven at 400 degrees for about an hour or 2
2. Crush the dry salt into a fine powder, and put about half an inch of the dry salt into each of the baby food jars
3. Add acetone to one jar and isopropanol alcohol to the other jar, each about 3/4 full and place them both in the freezer
4. Make sure your Soda water bottle is completely clean and COMPLETELY dry
5. Prepare an area to work, clean the area up, and have all the materials and tools easily accessible and organized in the work area
6. Put your PSE pills into the blender, blend them until they are a fine powder, and put the powder into a small Tupperware container sealed with the lid
7. Measure out 1/2 cup of Lye and put the Lye into a small Tupperware container sealed with the lid
8. Measure out 1/4 cup of Lye and put the Lye into a small Tupperware container sealed with the lid
9. Cut open the Instant Ice compress package, throw away the bag of water inside, measure out 1/4 cup of the AN crystals and put them into a Small Tupperware Container sealed with the lid
10. Measure out 1/8 cup of the AN crystals (1/2 of the 1/4 cup measuring cup) and put them into a Small Tupperware Container sealed with the lid
11. Pour about 1/4 of the bottle of Coleman’s fuel into a plastic Ziploc bag and keep bag handy for next step
12. Remove Lithium Strips from 2 AA Batteries:
- Hold one end of a battery tightly with a pair of plyers
- Use PVC Pipe cutters with the other hand to cut through the battery casing
- Try to prevent cutting past the casing and into the “guts” of the battery as well as you can
- Pinghat (I like him), suggested using a steak knife to saw through the casing without digging into the guts, then pulling casing apart…Probably a much easier way to attempt this, and I’m gonna give that shit a go next time
- Once the casing is cut all the way around the battery, set the cutter down and use the other pair of plyers to:
- Tightly hold the second end of the battery
- Bend the battery back and forth with the plyers in each of your hands to ensure the casing is cut all the way through
- While holding each end of the battery tightly with the plyers, pull the casing apart, and one side of the casing will come off exposing the “guts” of the battery
- Discard the 1/2 battery casing that was removed and use the now free plyers to clamp on the exposed battery guts while still holding the casing with the other pair of plyers… now pull apart again and the “guts” will come free of the casing
- Place the “guts” directly into the fuel in the Ziploc baggie, and keep them submerged in the fuel as much as possible
- Repeat this process with the second battery
- Remove the excess air from the Ziploc baggie and seal it
13. Add the 1/4 cup Tupperware container of AN to the RV using the funnel
14. Add the 1/2 cup Tupperware container of Lye to the RV using the funnel
15. Add the 2nd 1/4th of the bottle of Coleman’s fuel to the RV using the funnel
16. Remove the Lithium strips from the Battery Guts:
- Open the Ziplock baggie containing the fuel and the battery guts
- Put your clean hands into the fuel and unroll the 1st roll of battery guts while keeping them submerged the entire time
- Locate the strip of Lithium (this will be the dull gray looking strip, not the black and shiny silver strip)
- Remove the Li strip while still submerged in the fuel, and discard the rest of the battery “guts” into a grocery bag (be sure to also remove and throw away the shiny folded piece of metal that will be attached to the strip of Li at one end or the other)
- Repeat the process for the 2nd roll of “guts”
- Now rip off a piece of Li maybe 3 inches long, and begin tearing it into small pieces that can fit through the funnel and into the RV (Doesn’t matter if they are flat, or balled up, or folded, just keep them relatively small)
- Repeat this process until all of the Li is in the RV
17. Pour the fuel from the Ziplock bag into the RV using the funnel
18. Remove the funnel and screw the lid onto the RV
19. If the reaction is already building (Ammonia (NH3) bubbles emerging from the bottom layer of reactants and traveling to the top of the RV through the NP), by the time the cap is on…cool. If not, give the RV an easy swirl to get some of the reactants in the bottom to mix together koop and initiate reaction…
20. Blow-dryer can be used at this point, and throughout the remainder of the cook to initiate/increase the reaction in the RV
21. While holding RV with both hands, use your thumbs to “push In” on the center of the bottle to test internal pressure
22. Try this push test all the around the bottle to find the spot that is easiest to push in, and make a mental note of where this spot is as it is the spot you will use for monitoring pressure throughout the cook
23. Allow the reaction to continue while monitoring pressure until pressure builds high enough to warrant a pressure relief (Burp):
- These Soda stream bottles are beasts and can hold an incredible amount of internal pressure without failing, so don’t burp the RV until you are unable to push the bottle in whatsoever with the force of both of your thumbs pushing together
- The first burp will probably be needed about 2-5 minutes after the reaction starts really going but go by pressure, not by time
- After a few burps during the first 10-15min of good reaction, once everything slows a bit, you really only need to burp the RV a couple of times more prior to adding your PSE
24. When pressure reaches the threshold, burp the RV:
- Slowly loosen the cap on the RV just enough to let A VERY LITTLE bit of pressure escape, and to get the reaction rolling strong again, and then close the cap
- There may be a whistling sound as the high pressure gasses are venting out of the RV…Good sign that you are letting the pressure build enough before venting
- You may even see NH3 gas shoot out of the cap like steam blowing out of the sides of an iron… Scary, but VERY good sign that you are building the kind of pressure that you want
25. You should see little tiny Bronze beads start forming around the RV floating just on top of the NP mixed around with the Li within the first 10 minutes if everything is going well
If the Bronze is not starting to appear within 10 – 15 minutes, it’s a pretty good indication that you are not allowing enough pressure to build in the RV, and you are either burping too early, too often, or both. No big deal... Just be observant and learn.
26. Swirl the bottle and/or heat with blow-dryer as needed to keep the reaction continuing strong throughout this process
27. Continue this process for probably about 25 – 45 minutes, (less burping and stronger ammonia reaction = quicker bronzing of Li = Less time… so Kind a hard to give you an accurate time frame here) until approximately 3/4 of the Li in the RV has been converted to Bronze
The pink colour in the fuel will dissipate over these initial 25-45min, and the clear fuel will get foggy as it becomes saturated with Li Bronze particles
28. Slowly loosen the RV cap, vent all of the pressure, then remove the cap
29. If the reaction is slowing down at this point, recharge the RV by adding the remaining 1/8 cup AN and then the remaining 1/4 cup of lye to the RV through the clean funnel. No more AN or Lye need to be added if the reaction is still going strongly that it right that ty r that get the gr guy ty ty ty r get the it t ty ty
30. Add the PSE to the RV through the funnel slowly and then remove the funnel and screw cap back onto the RV
31. Shake the fuck out of the bottle for about 10 seconds…
32. Continue shaking the fuck out of the
bottle as much as possible while continuing to regulate pressure with the blow-dryer and burping for the next 20-30 minutes
33. The PSE must be based before the reaction can take place between the PSE and the Li, so it will be a bit (maybe 10-15 min. before you see the fuel start really going dark like chocolate milk)
- It is REALLY important to keep the pressure in the RV high, and the temp of the fuel as warm as you can during this time as it aides the reaction taking place between the PSE and the Li
- You will start seeing the fuel go dark after shaking the fuck out of the RV, and then go back to clear after the bottle settles
- This color change will likely happen many times
- Sometimes the fuel doesn’t really go nearly as dark as other times… it’s ok… just keep going…
34. Once you get to the point where you are able to shake the fuck out of the bottle, then set it down… and the fuel settles and goes back to clear in about 30-45sec, your cook is complete.
- You will still have some Li floating on top of the fuel, but it should be a very small amount compared to the original amount, and the remaining pieces will be thin and significantly reacted into bronze
- If you still have a significant amount of Li, don’t worry about it… Under-reacted product is still pretty decent, and you’ll get better next time
35. Slowly loosen the RV cap and vent all of the pressure
36. Prepare the funnel with the 2 cotton balls stuffed tightly into the stem, about 7 coffee filters in the funnel, and about a 1/2 inch layer of the dry Epsom in one of the middle coffee filters
37. Use the prepared funnel to carefully filter the fuel by pouring it from the RV into the Mason Jar.
- Don’t fill the funnel more than about 1/2 way full at any time to prevent Particulates from getting over, around, or through the filters.
- As you are draining the fuel from the RV into the funnel, some of the Li and the reactants will also be poured into the funnel… This is fine.
- As the last of the fuel is in the funnel, agitate the pile of reactants and Li with a small wooden or plastic spoon or something similar that is clean and made of either wood or plastic to get trapped meth to move on with the fuel through the filters.
- Add a little more clean fuel to the filters in the funnel, agitate mixture again, and allow fuel to collect remaining meth to the mason jar
- Oncet he filters have no more fuel, remove them from the funnel, squeeze them over the funnel to get as much of the meth/fuel as possible, dump the inner contents that they contain into a plastic Ziploc baggie, and discard the filters
- Remove the cotton balls from the funnel, squeeze the fuel from them into the mason jar, and discard them
39. Repeat the filtering process as before filtering the new fuel from the baggie into the original fuel in the Mason Jar, but this time, once the fuel filters through, after squeezing the filters and the cotton balls to get the excess fuel, just throw the filters and cotton balls into the baggie with the rest of the reactants, seal it, and set it aside for disposal.
Water Pull
- If you want to do gas Titration, please do it… Water pull is what I like…
- If you have questions about Gassing, ASK ECSTACYBEANS… That dude loves to go on about Gassing…and on…and on…and on…
Do not do this water cleaning if you are going to bang your dope as the sulfur impurities that you are washing away are the very things that provide that great fucking initial rush that takes your head out ta this world when you get a hold of some good Banger’s Dope.
41. Dump the Fuel/water mix into a plastic baggie, seal it, and then hang it from the wall by the corner of the bag with a tack
42. Allow the layers to separate (Fuel will be on the top, and the dirty waste water on the bottom), poke a hole through the bottom corner of the baggie with the sewing needle and allow the waste water to drain into any container for disposal
43. When the water is just about gone, switch the waste container for the Mason Jar and collect the fuel
44. Repeat this washing process 1 more time
45. After the 2nd water wash, pour the fuel from the Mason Jar into a plastic Ziplock baggie and add 1/4 cup of water.
46. Use an eye dropper to add 1-2 drops of HCl acid to the fuel/water mix, shake it around for a minute
47. Let the mixture settle and separate and obtain a sample of the water layer to test the PH
Use a long eye dropper or a needleless syringe to access the water beneath the fuel layer
48. Repeat this process until the PH of the water layer is between 6.8 and 7.2
- Use some kind of PH testing (Meter, strips, drops, whatever)
- When you start getting around 9 PH, just add one drop of HCL at a time, and retest PH after each drop
- It’s very easy to suddenly drop below target 7 PH and have dope that doesn’t smoke well
- I want Y’all to do this part good so you can join me in Nagging Beans about our dope NOT being fucked up
50. Pinch the hole in the corner of the baggie when the water is almost completely drained and then drain the fuel back into the Mason Jar
Do not let any of the fuel pass through the drain hole onto the evaporation plate
51. Repeat the water wash of the fuel, the addition of the 1/4 cup of water, the PH neutralizing (This time it will only probably need 2-3 drops of HCL total), and the collection of the water/meth once again to the same evaporation plate
52. Use a blow-dryer and optionally a hot plate or non-gas stove to evaporate the water on the plate leaving a meth crystal layer on the plate
53. Use a razor to scrape all of the meth into a pile
54. You can abuse as you wish at this point
- The upcoming Acetone Wash will ensure that it burns cleanly on your foil or pizzle
- You can continue onto the recrystallization from there if you like, but it’s not necessary
Acetone Wash
55. Allow meth to completely dry
56. Crush meth crystals into a fine powder, and then put the powder into a shot glass
57. Use an eye dropper to siphon some acetone from the jar in the freezer and add to the meth in the shot glass until the powder is well covered, swirl mixture for about 30 – 60 seconds, and then dump mixture onto a new clean evaporation plate…
58. Hold the evaporation plate at a slight angle to allow the excess acetone to drain and collect at the bottom of the plate with the dissolved impurities
Save these nasty dissolved impurities to use as a cut on the shit you sell, or to smoke later when you’re in a bind as it will still contain some meth
59. Scrape the remaining meth crystals out of the shot glass onto the plate with the rest of the meth using a knife, or razor, or whatever, and then clean the shot glass
ReCrystalization
60. Scrape together the clean meth crystals that did not dissolve into a pile, allow them to completely dry, and crush them into a fine powder, and add once again to the clean shot glass
61. Use the CLEAN eyedropper once again to transfer the non-salt portion of the Isopropanol Alcohol from the jar in the freezer to a small saucepan and heat on stove until it starts boiling
62. Use eyedropper to slowly add hot Isopropanol Alcohol to the meth in the shot glass
- Just enough so that the meth will completely dissolve.
- Stir...MA will dissolve...anything that doesn't is more impurity
- Siphon ISO/MA into 2nd shot glass carefully leaving solid impurities in first shot glass
63. Heat ISO/MA till you just see first signs of film start to develop on surface.
64. Remove from heat...add a drop or 2 more of ISO, add add a couple drops of Acetone for good measure, and allow to evaporate
- Freezer takes about 6 hours, produces smallest crystals
- Fridge = longer & bigger crystals
- Room temp = longest & biggest shards
65. Carefully remove fragile crystals when they are no longer growing lce
66. Give crystals, once completely dry, one last quick rinse with dry cold Acetone to remove surface impurities, and let completely dry one last time…
You now have beautiful crystal clear shards that will get you “NO” higher than the salt you started with, but they are pretty. Smoke them crystals, watch it run (clean as water with little to no trail), watch it crack back, it’s like Magic.
That’s it.
Sincerely, that’s as detailed with Theo in steps as I can be…If you still can’t follow that, PLEASE just buy your dope off of someone that can!
I wish you ALL the greatest of Success!
Once again, the preceding post was a 100% hypothetical scenario that I generated based on the information that I’ve picked up reading this thread… I have never actually done any of the things listed in this thread, as they are illegal, and I do not want anyone else to do anything in this thread either as it is illegal. It is simply a fictitious story that I imagined.
Last edited by Li(NH3)4
